Conference?

For those of you who didn't know, my language cluster and I were invited to speak at a 2 day conference outside of Chirnigiv. The director of the organization we've been working with for our final project has a non-profit but also works for the government (different structure. . . remember that), and he loves us so much we got us to be guest speakers. I'm still not sure what the conference was about, but the head honchos of the Oblast administration (kinda like each individual State administration) was there. We were to take part in a round table that talked about the political structure of the American government at the State and City level. Of course, Peace Corps was thrilled we were to take part because it meant more publicity for them, and I think this is the first time a training group had been invited to something so big and important.

What the interpreters and everyone else didn't inform us of was the fact that after the round table, things would get crazy! The conference was at a local resort (called a sanitarium, but for the sake of not doing it justice, we'll call it a resort-type-place). After the round table, which lasted 2 hours and we were grilled on how to apply the American political structure here in Ukraine (not easy, considering how their government is set up), we ate dinner. There was a long table set up outside, with bottles of vodka, wine, juice, etc, and tons of little appetizers to munch on. The shots started being poured. Just as a sidenote, there's a Ukrainian tradition/superstition that you must toast drinks in groups of 3. Meaning each time someone wants to take a shot of vodka, 2 must follow that with other toast. And you always toast. . . no sneaking shots in here and there. So, here we are, toasting 3 times for 3 sets of toasts. Yes, that's 9 shots in all! Granted I wasn't drinking (I had maybe 2 glasses of wine), because we had a Peace Corps chaperone and we're not allowed to drink at Peace Corps events, and technically this was a Peace Corps event. But really?! 9 shots?!

The dinner table

Then we had a little concert from the kids from the NGO we've been working with, who sang traditional Ukrainian songs, pop songs, and Katy Perry. Let me say one thing- "I Kissed a Girl" is not as fun when they change the lyrics and sing it in Russian, so that the lyrics are really "I Kissed my Boyfriend". But once the 15 year-old who was singing switched back to the English version, she started singing "I kissed a girl" again. Disturbing on so many levels. Thank God I got it on video.

The kids performing

So once everyone was filled up on booze, the fun began. There was a DJ, really bad Russian/Ukrainian pop that was bouncy and danceable, but whose lyrics literally were about raspberries (yes, the fruit). And when the Ukrainians dance, boy do they break it down! In a circle! I felt like I was in gym class again of something, because here everyone's standing in a circle, doing whatever dance they want. . . in a circle! And then we did the hora. Complete with everyone holding hands and dancing into the middle of the circle. All that was missing was a chair to put the Bar-Mitzvah boy on.

And that, my friends, was my Thursday night :)

Sidenotes- I finally found out how to post videos and successfully posted the video of the Singing Fountain! See the post titled "Kiev"

Also: Isn't this poster amazing?!!

This is a random poster of the music group that sings about teen social issues such as abortion, drug and alcohol abuse, peer pressure, etc. I just thought it was funny. . . and ironic.

Korop

Last week we went to go visit the little town of Korop, which has a population of about 5,000, to see what the size was. We were visiting another PCV who was working with the local government and had a bunch of projects going on, including the building of the town's first internet cafe. You could pretty much walk anywhere in the town in about 10 minutes. It had a cute little park in the center of town, a bizarre that was only there on Wednesdays (so you'd have to plan your food budget around the fact that you could only get things on Wednesdays), and a cute little museum with all these artifacts dating back from the 12th century (old scraps of pottery and such) to WWII and the Great Famine.

It was really interesting to see the differences, not only in the size of the town, but the attitude of the people there. Everyone was so friendly and welcoming, and loved the fact that we were trying to speak Russian! They were all very surprised and please by our really bad Russian, because I think just the fact that we were attempting was flattering to them. This is totally different to the majority of Chirnigiv, who aren't as patient with our lack of Russian skills. The government agency was also pretty cool to see, just to see how things work in a small town. It was very similar to a small town in the States compared to the big, bad city. That's the closest I can think of to a good comparison. The government structure here, on the other hand, is very different and hard to comprehend or explain. Basically, the gyst of it is that Ukraine is made up of 27 oblasts. Each Oblast has regions, and each region has cities and towns. Each city, region and oblast has its own council or governement, depending on the level (very much like State, County, City in America). However, each town and city collects taxes not for the city or region, but for the State of Ukraine. Once this money is collected, it's then sent to Kiev, where the government redistributes as they see fit. That means that while some of the most populated areas are bringing in the most taxes, they're probably not getting the same amount back in the redistribution, and their budgets are therefor lower than they'd like. Which means that everyone suffers because not enough money is being brought into areas that need it. This also brings about a lot of corruption, because if the government is redistributing the money as they see fit, how do they determine what is "fit"? Think about that for a while. Anyhoo, that's the overall government structure (confused? So am I). And to see it actually in the works on the local level and see what works and doesn't was fascinating.

This visit pretty much came at an ideal time, because on Wednesday we have our site placement interviews, where we sit down with some head honchos and they discuss our resumes and skills and we can make requests for where we'd prefer to get placed permanently. Not to say that it'll happen, but we at least can get a word in about it. So seeing the difference in size and everything was very helpful. What size town do I want? Who the hell knows. . . honestly, I'm pretty easy. I'll be happy whatever and wherever, so long as I have a bed, toilet, and some sort of running water (even it's just cold water, which is likely to happen). Oh, and IF PEOPLE START KEEPING IN TOUCH! (That's everyone's nice warning. Don't make me put on my new and improved stone cold face).

I Like to be in Amer-eeka

For all of you who have known me for more than 30 seconds, you know I like to travel, and sometimes get frustrated with American ways and politics. Hence my current location halfway around the world. I know, I know, I'm working for "the man", but that's for another day. The point is that sometimes I get frustrated and bolt. But since I've been here I've developed a better grasp on just how much other countries depend on America and the financial stability of our country. I had always known this, of course, and it was first brought to my attention here when I learned that both Galya and Sergei, my host parents, are out of work due to the "crisis", which is pronounced "keesees", but since my host family has their own garden, so while they're affected, they're getting by.

Nothing seriously hit me until I visited Rachel's host family last night. We were preparing for a long night of Euro-discoing (a whole story thereof itself that is told the next paragraph down), and we were sitting at the kitchen table drinking vodka and talking to her host mom, who, by the way, decided that I was hungry and therefore prepared an entire plate of bread and cheese sandwiches, none of which I really wanted. Anyways, so we're talking to her, and Valya's (Rachel's host mom) main thing is that she wants her youngest daughter to move to America to get a job and send the money home to Ukraine. It doesn't matter what kind of job, just any job. So she kept asking us whether we thought it was a good idea or not, and we said honestly, right now, no. There's no way she'll find a job in America without being able to speak English, especially when so many Americans are out of work. This is when it hit me how much this family has been affected by the financial situation in the States. Valya works part-time. Her youngest daughter is in school in Kiev, and when she's not in school she works part-time too. Her oldest daughter (the hipster one from the previous entry about the birthday party) has two jobs and basically makes all the income in the family. She had been a nanny in Germany and was sending all her money back to her mother, but for some reason isn't doing that anymore.

All of this and yet while they know they're not doing well, they also know that they have a roof over their head, food on the table, and family and friends. And that's all they need.

On a lighter note, I went to the disco last night and danced to really bad Euro techno. I'm talking really bad! But alas, I danced anyway. Rachel and I were the only Americans who went, and apparently everyone in the disco knew we were Americans. Could it have been the fau-hawk, tennis shoes, and black vest in a room full of super made up, high heeled, bare skinned women? Possibly. But I think it was Rachel's moo-moo shirt. While there we met this guy who had actually lived and traveled around the States for 2 years, so his English was amazing! He went on and on about how America is amazing and he wants to go back and live there after he graduates from University and how after 4 months ofHe was also gay and loved talking to Rachel and I about both San Fransisco and New York. When we toasted before taking a vodka shot, as is tradition, he actually went to far as to say "cheers bitches!" My kind of guy! So we exchanged numbers and I've decided that he's my new best friend.

So the moral of the story is this. . . while I apparently want to leave America at every chance, many people want to get in and stay there. When I get back a road trip is in order to get me to see the "land of opportunity" in all its glory.

Shashleeking

I just thought I'd check in to say hi to everyone. No real fun stories to tell, but I just wanted to say that I've found my most favorite thing to do ever. . . and that would be bar-b-quing. Aka. Shashleeking. We youngster volunteers had one the second week we were here, and brought a volleyball and soccer ball and literally just hung out in the forest all afternoon. For all of you who have ever been to my apt. in the summertime in NY, you know that I heart being the grillmaster. Same goes here. Thanks to the Girl Scouts (don't laugh), I am an expert in making fires from nothing. And we've had to start many to grill our food. Last weekend, though, was a serious shashleek. I'm not kidding. It was one of the volunteers, Suzanne's birthday, so her host mom invited us all to the forest to join in a birthday feast. Not only did they have shashleek metal sticks, but they had a portable grill. And the spread. . . whew. . . what a spread! Amazing!

And that's all I got. Oh, and some pics (I was told I don't have enough pictures of myself on this blog, so ask and ye shall recieve).

Jason, Me and Catherine at Shashleek #1

The gang at Shashleek #2

Enjoying the outdoors

The spread at Shashleek #2

Don't Try to Save the World. Start an English Club

These were the wise words from our fearless leader Morat (the Community Development Director).  I have to say, those have been the wisest words I've heard from anyone since I've been here.  The gyst is this- the larger youe expectations, the more you're going to feel unsuccessful. Which is why, shockingly enough, I have no expectations for anything that is going to happen over the next 2 years.  So you can all imagine my surprise when meetings were scheduled and our cluster finally figured out the community project we're going to do for the next month!  We are going to be working with this awesome NGO called Mozart.  Mozart is a theatrical based organization that takes local kids and puts on free musicals around the city, the region, and even Europe.  Right now they're in Germany for a festival.  Anyhoo, all these musicals concern social issues that affect teenagers (teenage suicide, drugs and alcohol, domestic abuse, rape, abortion and pregnancy, etc.).  Obviously they're not happy musicals, but the music is great, the singers are really talented, and they are very well equipped with a super modern space and office set up.  

So, if that's all taken care of, what do they need our help with, you ask?  Well, originally they wanted us to actually plan and organize an event AND come with them on a tour of the Chirnigiv Oblast (which is the region I'm in).  We realized that wasn't very sustainable and we wouldn't be working with them but more for them.  What we also got out of our meeting with them was that they are having problems finding money.  Right now, I think they only have a few grants, no corporate money, and don't really know where else to find grants.  Uh hello?!!! PERFECT!  I know this stuff!  YIPPEE!!  So we're having a workshop on how to find corporate sponsors, do grant research, and other plausible fundraising areas at the beginning of June. And since we figured this would also be a great opportunity for them to network, we opened it up to other organizations/officials/whatever they they want to invite (or that we suggest may be a good connection for them).

The director, I swear, is a 17 year old in a 45 year old's body.  Love him.  He's so cute, and doesn't speak a lick of English, but he's so excited to be working with Americans in whatever way he can that he gets all giggly when we're around.  So when I broke out with a Russian "ablom", which means "bummer" (of course I only know and can remember slang phrases), he was hysterical laughing.  I think I made a friend for life.  And while we're not starting an English club, it's still a small enough accomplishment that things will be gained from it.

Other than that, life is grand.  Last night I went out with Rachel and Tony and we met up with Ukrainian Sasha (from the birthday party I had gone to).  That kid is funny.  He knows a little English, and ends every sentence with "you understand?".  And he does the best Bobby DiNero I've ever heard!  Complete with all the cussing.  Amazing!  It's fascinating to see a non-native speaker curse like a sailor based on what he's learned from the movies.  Fascinating, I tell you. Anyways, he took us to a bar that was literally in a back alley, and we walk in and it's this fancy restaurant with a bar downstairs, and it had a movie projector playing the FC Barcelona-Real Madrid game on a movie screen!  There we proceeded to hang out with his friends, and I was wearing my Rovers soccer shirt I had gotten right before I left NY.  The guy next to me asks, in broken English, where I played soccer, and was our team good, and could he have my shirt.  I told him I was wearing it (duh), but if he finds me a Chirnigiv women's soccer jersey (I didn't ask where he'll get it. . . I'm not sure I want to know, but the main reason is I don't know how to say that in Russian), I'll give him my shirt.  So I think I might have just traded a jersey for a jersey.  Although I can't be sure, because, like everything over here, I don't have an f-ing clue what's going on in general.

Last little story- I went to the forest today with a ton of other volunteers because it was Suzanne's birthday.  So her host mom brought a grill, tons of food, cognac, and wine, and we sat for hours stuffing our faces with amazing shashleeked chicken and other goodies.  Good thing I went for a run beforehand, because I don't feel as bad for eating as much as I did. However,  the weight gain hasn't happened yet (cross your fingers) because I'm only eating organic stuff and no processed anything.  The only downfall is that it's salty.  Small price to pay.

Oh, once I get to site, if anyone wants to send me jersies, or anything else American (cheap little things) that can be traded, I'll give you a million dollars. . . !